USD Tank Help

[Dave2]

Thanks again simonbeans. I just emailed thescubamuseum about a valve.

Very cool pic. I've never seen anything like it.


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[Dave2]

After a search I found the thread about the required O-ring. It looks like I need a 114 in 90 durometer. Can anyone confirm?


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[captain]

Let the air out and take a wrench to it and remove the valve. Don't put the wrench across the face of the valve where the o-ring is as you can mar it and mess it up.
An o-ring sealed 1/2 inch valve should come loose easily although I have dealt with one that I almost never got loose and destroyed the valve in the process.
If the valve is tapered you can see it. It will have teflon tape on the threads as well.

If I am not mistaken, the threads on the straight 1/2" are the same as the old steel SCBA fire department bottles used in Scott Packs back in the 70's. I made a small set of doubles using a pair of SCBA tanks rated at 2016 psi and a Sportsways straight thread 1/2" double manifold. They look like a pair of 38 doubles right out of Sea Hunt.

Actually putting the wrench on the O ring face is the correct way. If you put the wrench on the side I will tend to mash the side into the O ring grove. I have seen many valve ruined by putting the wrench on the sides. I have removed and installed many 1/2 " taper valves this way and never damaged one. I bitched at a hydro shop for using a wrench on the side and ruining the valve.

[captain]

Wrong, force of wrench is pushing into the O ring groove

[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/bu ... .jpg[/img][/url]



Right, force of wrench is pushing away from O ring Groove.

[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/bu ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[simonbeans]

Ditto to Capt'n's advice.

[Bryan]

Thanks Tom....Pictures say a thousand word sometimes. I added this to the technical section and I'll update the blog post as well.

[Dave2]

Feel free to alter the thread title if needed. This is great info.


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[Dave2]

Contacted Rob at thescubamuseum.com and he's sending me this:





Dropped of tank at LDS for Hydro today.

Thanks again for all the help.

Dave

[captain]

Be sure the hydro shop is aware of the round out procedure ( PST D-100) for galvanized tanks that should be done before the hydro test. Failure to do it can result in a tank being failed when in actuality it is good. I believe there is a copy in the manual and tech section.

[Dave2]

Thanks. I'll look for it.


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[Dave2]

Be sure the hydro shop is aware of the round out procedure ( PST D-100) for galvanized tanks....

I didn't find it in the manuals, but I found it here: http://www.ctcseminars.com/Files/Techni ... 20D100.pdf.

Hopefully that's the most current version.

I sent a copy to my LDS.

[Bronze06]

Dave,

I take it you've already done the rebuild on the DAAM? Hope the following helps.

Breaking the Code:

TC-3ALM-207 – Canadian regulatory authority markings.

TC = Transport Canada (showing the tank meets Canadian specifications).
3ALM = Canada’s specification code for 3-gauge aluminum.
207 = the tank’s service pressure (also referred to as working pressure), expressed in bars.

DOT-3AL-3000 – U.S. regulatory authority markings.

DOT = Department of Transportation (showing the tank meets U.S. specifications).
3AL = U.S. specification code for 3-gauge aluminum.
3000 = the tank’s service pressure (also referred to as working pressure), expressed in psi.

Many tanks made in North America nowadays will have both markings and pressures increments, example, TC/DOT-3AL-3000-207BAR

P697426 This particular tank’s unique serial number.

LUXFER 10A05 SO80

LUXFER = the tank’s manufacturer
10 = Month of manufacture
A = Inspection code symbol
05 = Year of manufacture
SO80 = Luxfer’s model/part number for this cylinder, indicating its capacity in cubic feet at normal working pressure (this is a standard 80 cubic foot tank; a SO40 would indicate a 40 cubic foot tank, SO30 a 30 cubic foot tank, and so on).

11 DO/69 12 Date of most recent hydrostatic test.

[Dave2]

Dave,

I take it you've already done the rebuild on the DAAM? Hope the following helps.
.

Thanks Bronze. That clears it up.

Bryan has the DAAM right now. He is rebuilding it, adding HPR, duck bill eliminator, and putting a Phoenix on it (I couldn't resist).

I've already ordered new hoses, curved mouth piece and improved wagon wheels.

Can't wait to get it back it back in a few weeks.


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[BigMike]

You are going to love it when you get it back!

[Dave2]

UPDATE

Just got the tank back (passed Hydro). I had the valve rebuilt locally because I didn't have the time.


Now I just need to figure out the best way to attach the J-Rod:



Thanks again for all the great advice.
Dave