All hail the Triples

[JES]

That's the best part about being a combat vet! I never usually hear people pick on me

So you're saying that your Bradley and M-4 were loud.

[Ron]

Huh? The really great part is that I can selectively listen to Anna and she cannot hold it against me....unless she reads VDH of course

[Ron]

So Captain Tom is finishing up my triples manifold, and I have a line on 3 aluminum 40's. I need to figure out how to procure triple tank bands. I was thinking that a few of us need them, so if we leverage our buying power as a group maybe we can lower the individual price of each set of bands. This leads me to three questions:

1.) Who needs triple tank bands?
2.) What diameter are your tanks?
3.) Does anyone have an idea who would do it?

If we all get the same setup, that could lower costs. Aluminum 40's of all brands are 5.25 inches in diameter. Steel tanks are 5.5 inches in diameter. The price difference is a big deal. Triple aluminum tanks are about 450 bucks. Triple steels are about 750 bucks. Additionally, steel tanks would be WAY negative in this setup. I am going with the aluminum tanks.

[captain]

I have fabricated a set of triple bands but before anyone gets too excited I do not want to get into the band making business but I will supply a materials list and instruction on making them. Depending on tank size the fabricator would have to determine over all length and hole spacing. All can be done with hand tools but access to a table saw would be helpful.

[Ron]

I would be very interested to learn about how to do that Captain. Are you going to post it on here or do you want me to email or PM you for details?

[captain]

I'll work something up and send it to Bryan and he can post it however he wants.

[DiverTim]

Tom if you still have the manifold when I get back, I would like to drop in and see them. Tim

[antique diver]

I sure am looking forward to seeing a photo of this manifold!

[Ron]

If Tom doesn't post pictures of it then I will. I have never seen anything that he has done look anything less that factory, so I am sure this will look the same. Heck, he told me how to tune a nonmag over the phone while I was on a road trip and I still managed to get that right.

[antique diver]

....he told me how to tune a nonmag over the phone while I was on a road trip and I still managed to get that right.

OK, I'm putting mine together right now. If you guys have any helpful tips I'm listening!

[Ron]

I know you know most, if not all of this, but here goes:

1.) Rebuild the nozzle, put it together. Put the yoke on it, but leave it out of the body. Put it on a tank. Charge the nozzle, make sure it doesn't leak.

2.) Put the nozzle in the body, put the second stage together, but leave the horseshoe lever off. Put the whole thing on a tank. Charge the tank. Adjust the first stage until the second stage begins to leak, then back off the first stage IP a little bit until it stops.

3.) Add the horseshoe lever to the second stage. Raise lever height as much as you can without the diaphragm causing a freeflow and you are good to go.

This is, in a nutshell, Captain Tom's procedure. We should sticky it.

[antique diver]

Thanks Ron and Captain! Sounds like the best plan to me.
BTW, has anyone tried backing out the second stage a little to reduce spring tension?

Thanks,
Bill

[Ron]

I haven't had a need to Bill. My nonmag cracks at .6" @ a supply pressure of about 400-500 PSI. If spring pressure were reduced any more I would surmise that it would begin to bubble just a tiny bit. At a low tank pressure, mine breathes every bit as good as a RAM, and I am a sally when it comes to cracking pressure.

[antique diver]

I haven't had a need to Bill. My nonmag cracks at .6" @ a supply pressure of about 400-500 PSI. If spring pressure were reduced any more I would surmise that it would begin to bubble just a tiny bit. At a low tank pressure, mine breathes every bit as good as a RAM, and I am a sally when it comes to cracking pressure.

Yep, there would be no reason to make it easier at that point. It could just be hard to control. Starting on it now, and it is going to be a beauty with that new powder coat.

[captain]

Thanks Ron and Captain! Sounds like the best plan to me.
BTW, has anyone tried backing out the second stage a little to reduce spring tension?

Thanks,
Bill

Really no reason to do it. Lower spring pressure would mean lower IP before the 2nd stage starts to freeflow and lower IP would translate to lower flow rates and slower IP recovery.