Vancetp wrote: ↑Fri Nov 16, 2018 1:51 pmSeems like one could be made like the un-ridged one. It might be complicated putting ridges on it. If you machined it so there were thin rings at the ends that are bigger than the barrel, you could file away most of them so there were contact points for alignment? I think the metal pin in the end which extends up into the body of the plunger a bit is to keep the tip from distorting. The metal doesn't come in contact the volcano orifice.
You could touch the originals up in a lathe with something very fine if you were careful. Also, I know of at least one person who machined a sleeve to fit into the DivAir valve that allows the use of a Healthways plunger. That seems like an easier approach than making a new plunger?
I know I've said it before, but DON'T TRY TO REMOVE the yoke nut! You will probably break the casting. I've never heard of one coming off!
BTW, for anyone in need, I have a few (50?) fine screens for the DivAir HP valve. Let me know if you need them and I'll mail you some.
It will be a while before I get around to the Divair, but remind me later. I know someone who has one that the hp seat is not working, and might be able to borrow that seat. His shop is temporarily closed til sometime in December, but once they are back I think I can get him to loan me the reg to pull the seat out. Making a working seat for him, if possible, would be an appropriate gesture for the generosity he has always shown me.
I didn't think about square stock as starting point. I don't have a mill to work it to correct size, but a "real" machinist (Herman) could do that. For me it would be easier to use round stock on a lathe, and that would also keep the center opening for spring centered.
antique diver wrote: ↑Tue Nov 20, 2018 10:09 amI didn't think about square stock as starting point. Thanks for bringing up new ideas. I don't have a mill to work it to correct size, but a "real" machinist (Herman) could do that. For me it would be easier to use round stock on a lathe, and that would also keep the center opening for spring centered.
The metal insert may not be that complicated. I was just thinking of using SS rod stock such as an extra pin cut to appropriate length, and boring a snug blind hole for it to be pressed into.
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