Vintage Double Hose

My Faux Kawasaki Aqua-Master Project
- 3-5 years ago, I bought a replica Kawasaki Aqua-Master label from A&D Adventures. I also bought a Kawasaki Aqua-Master T-shirt from Rob. Somewhere in the middle of all that, I got a good deal on the back half of a DA Aqua-Master.... Like new looking condition but no front can. Later, I must have found a deal on a front can... Because I've had one for awhile now.
- As of two weeks ago, I'd nearly worn out the shirt but still had not even started the project. But I finally got going on it last week, weekend, and so far this week. Finished everything except the hose clamps last night. Pictures and story to follow...

A Delightful Week Long Project...

- It seems like I haven't done a complete re-build... Much less a challenging one in quite awhile. As you can see from the first post, this regulator was cobbled together from previously unrelated parts. On the inside, I used a lot of parts I've accumulated from other regulator projects and repairs. The high pressure diaphragm and gasket came from the leftovers Bryan sent back after re-building my Argonaut. Those parts were still like brand new. The 2nd stage bonnet and seat stem assembly came from my "Mystery Mess" DAAM after I upgraded to an HPR 2nd stage. I put iin a new gray silicone DAAM diaphragm that I got from Rob few years back. I'll describe some other leftovers later in this thread.

The Challenging Part...
And Why We All Should Have an IP Gauge

- As recommended by VDH experts, the IP pressure on a DAAM should be set at 140 when the regulator is pressurized on a 300 psi tank. This is an expert refinement on what the service manual says... Which is to set the IP to 110 when the regulator is pressurized on a 2250 psi tank. It ends up being the same setting when you check it at both pressures afterwards BUT... Setting it while at the low pressure end gives finer control.
- On my Faux Kawasaki, I could not get the IP gauge needle to hold still. The HP seat looked like a brand new one though with a slight impression where the orifice contacts it. Anyway, I swapped it out for a brand new VDH seat I had in my spare parts collection. Results were still not good. So I re-faced the original seat with first 600 grit and then 1500 grit emory paper against a flat surface. This improved things a bit but the needle on the IP gauge was still creeping up a bit.
- Finally, I inspected the high pressure orifice up close and well lighted. Sure enough there were some scratches. So, I used 0000 fine steel wool and a new pencil eraser to CAREFULLY polish the orifice. This completely solved the leaking HP seal (and creeping needle of the IP gauge).
- The importance of the IP gauge... I could not have detected the leak in the HP seat without the IP gauge. I actually sprayed soapy water on just the nozzle when it was pressurized and I saw no bubbles... I could not see the leak that way. So the IP gauge is not just for setting the correct pressure. It's also a valuable diagnostic tool.

That's beautiful Eben. Congrats on a job well done. I agree that setting the IP on a 300psi tank with an unbalanced AM is the way to go.

I've had the same problem, and same solution, with creeping IP. It can be very frustrating. Anyway, good job! Mark

Authenticity...
- Rob's Scuba Museum has a write-up and photos of a real Kawasaki Aqua-Master at
http://www.thescubamuseum.com/regulator ... CTURES.htm
- I don't know if Kawasaki ever did a satin chrome version with yellow hoses like mine... So I'm just going to assume they did!
- Otherwise the hose clamps are a little different. I went for an early vintage version of the nylon hose clamps... Using some good ones I had in my parts box. These seem to look the most like the original Jap' clamps.


- And of course I don't have a mouthpiece with the Japanese characters molded into it.

And Finally... The T-Shirt
- Although I bought the regulator can label first, it was the Kawasaki T-Shirt that kept reminding me to do this build. It's quite a unique T-Shirt and I'm always challenged to have a T-Shirt that Sea Hunt Jerry and SwimJim don't have. So needless to say I've worn it a lot. And every time I've worn it, I've been reminded of my unfinished/unstarted Kawasaki Aqua-Master project. This explains why the shirt is nearly wore out.
- Rob! We need more Kawasaki shirts!

ScubaLawyer wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:22 am

That's beautiful Eben. Congrats on a job well done. I agree that setting the IP on a 300psi tank with an unbalanced AM is the way to go.

I've had the same problem, and same solution, with creeping IP. It can be very frustrating. Anyway, good job! Mark

Thanks Mark. I kind of forgot how much fun it is when the you finally solve the frustrating IP leak. As you get closer and the thing seems to be working better but still not right... You go, "Maybe its something else". Or, "It's almost there... Maybe if I leave it pressurized overnight it'll seal up". Stuff like that. Then when you finally fix the right thing its like, BOOM! And there's no doubt its fixed and working perfectly. That's fun.
(Perhaps "BOOM" is the wrong term to use when talking about high pressure devices?)

Cool, now all you need is the tanks and fins that match!

kgehring wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 6:12 pm

Cool, now all you need is the tanks and fins that match!P4130002.jpgP4130001.jpg

I think I'm going to need you to make up some Kawasaki tank decals!

BTW: I dove the reg in the High School pool yesterday. Worked great down to 12' deep!

Kawasaki decals.........HMMMMMMM. I will look into that. I am working on a couple others right now and will put these in line.

Decals will be made within the next month!

Hey, how 'bout the NE Divers decal? That would be awesome! Sorry! I paid attention this time.... NE Divers reg label is what I'd like to see!

I have them on my site.
scubamuseum.com

kgehring wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 28, 2018 4:03 pm

Decals will be made within the next month!

Thank you Karl! I will definitely buy some to go with my Faux Kawasaki Reg and T-Shirt.