DaveMann wrote:So if you replace the first and second stages of a two stage regulator with a Phoenix and an HPR is there any original regulator left besides the vintage can? And, other than the hoses what, if any, other parts must be replaced so that the vintage regulator can be considered completely rebuilt?
Dave,
Aqualung called the "first stage" the "nozzle" (PN 1012-12) on the DA Aqua Master and Royal Aqua Master. It contained a built in orifice that sealed against the seat, and it contained the seat, spring and spring block as well as the filter and a retainer ring to hold it all in place. The nozzle also served as the yoke retainer and the whole assembly screwed into the regulator Body (PN 1012-03).
The "Body" is the main part of the regulator as it connects the yoke and nozzle with the rear can - called the "Box Top" (PN 1012-06), - and contains the rest of the first stage parts including the pin, support, diaphragm, pad, spring retainer, spring and adjusting screw. It also contains the second stage orifice and second stage parts including the second stage seat (disc) and retainer, spring and seat holder, as well as the lock supports, lever (horse shoe) and the required screws, nuts, washers and gaskets.
The Body IS the regulator for all intents and purposes and in 1965 it was the third most expensive part in the regulator at $12.07, behind the box top at $12.80 and the complete hose and mouthpiece assembly at $12.95. The box bottom (front can) cost $11.00 and the complete valve assembly (nozzle and everything inside it) was $10.00, with all the other parts being in the single digit price range.
If you covert a DA to a PRAM with the Phoenix first stage, the HPR second stage, a DBE, a band clamp ring, and do all the potential upgrades of the soft parts (first and second stage diaphragms, mouthpiece mushroom valves, wagon wheels, hoses and mouthpiece) you'll have the following original parts still left in the regulator:
1012-03 Body
1012-08 Cap (you can replace this with a hookah port adapter, but there is no need on a PRAM)
1000-34 Gasket (between the body and the Box Top)
1000-05 Spring Retainer
1000-39 Pad
1000-40 Spring
1023-43 Screw, Adjusting
1012-06 Box Top
1000-14 Ring (which screws on to the reg body to secure the Box Top to the regulator Body
1012-11 Box Bottom
Or in other words, as long as you have these parts, you can build a PRAM.