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Installing HPR

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:20 pm
by Finneli
When I screwed in the HPR, the second stage ended pointing a quarter turn away from where the bleed valves are supposed to line up with the tabs. Will there be an issue if the HPR is not screwed in all the way?

Re: Installing HPR

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:32 pm
by luis
You have to back it up 1/4 turn .

The big holes provides the venturi jet and one of them has to point down the horn.

You could even adjust the spring tension in the second stage by backing the HPR out another half turn after that (or even a full turn). But, it has worked well by just screwing it until it bottoms out and then backing it out until it aligns the venturi hole with the horn.


Then you use the two tabs with the screws to lock it in place.

The HPR is not designed to bottom out. It was never intended to bottom out. The original second stage was also not designed to bottom out.


The side smaller holes are bleed holes. They allow air to leak into the case to avoid excessive venturi effect and subsequent uncontrolled free flow.

The amount of venturi flow can be adjusted by partially blocking one of the bleed holes, but just start by getting it working and we can talk about fine tuning later.

Take a look at this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6329

I posted a lot of information and pictures in the thread. It should be helpful to look at it.

Note: when you turn the HPR, make sure to lift the lever or press it down to avoid cutting the soft seat with the volcano orifice.

In the final position the lever has to straddle the IP adjusting screw.

Re: Installing HPR

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:38 pm
by Herman
That is normal, it is not susposed to be down tight. With the levers up to keep the seat from touching, screw it down until it just stops BY HAND...NO TOOLs, then back up until the levers are pointing in and there is one of the larger holes aimed directly down the supply horn. Later during the assembly you will install 2 screws and plastic parts that prevent the HPR from moving.
I assume you are test fitting it...if not, I would suggest you complete the rest of the assembly (back can optional)before installing the HPR. It will make life easier.

Re: Installing HPR

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 7:09 pm
by Finneli
Alright, thank you

Re: Installing HPR

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 6:27 pm
by SnarkIII
I'm doing my first Overhaul/Upgrade on a DAAM. I have the cyclone in and I'm ready to install the HPR. If I understand this thread correctly the HPR should be finger tight and backed off until aligned properly. When installing the screws that lock it in place the book says to use Loctite to hold the screws in place. I don't see any mention of Loctite in this thread. Is some type of thread lock required with the HPR?

Re: Installing HPR

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 6:52 pm
by Bryan
SnarkIII wrote:
Mon Feb 05, 2018 6:27 pm
I'm doing my first Overhaul/Upgrade on a DAAM. I have the cyclone in and I'm ready to install the HPR. If I understand this thread correctly the HPR should be finger tight and backed off until aligned properly. When installing the screws that lock it in place the book says to use Loctite to hold the screws in place. I don't see any mention of Loctite in this thread. Is some type of thread lock required with the HPR?
DO NOT use locktite or any sort of thread locker on the screws. Torque them to 8"lbs or just a shade over two fingers tight gripping the screwdriver. There is zero lateral movement on the HPR.

Re: Installing HPR

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 7:19 pm
by SnarkIII
Thank you Bryan. I'd rather ask and do it right instead of screwing it up. Thanks again.