After 25 years in hardwood flooring and being a smoker until 1997 my sense of smell is somewhat compromised. I understand that getting the "smell" out can be a problem. But I figure all the parts are getting a hot bath afterwards anyway. My take is, it is easier to clean then it is to replace. On another note, if you think PB Blaster is bad and hard to remove smell wise, try Salt-X some time. That stuff works great to remove verdigris and it's paint safe for the labels and chrome safe.... but the stench! Holy man, that stuff is down right nasty!Herman wrote:There is no good reason I know of to bend the lever supports. I do not recommend staking the LP seat nut but it DOES (at least IMO) need to be secured some how. I use fingernail polish. It's easy to get, waterproof and stays on but if you put much torque on it, it shatters and comes off easily. Nylon lock nuts would be ideal but the stem is not long enough nor does it have a screwdriver slot to hold it in place so they are not a good option.
Jim, I use it too but try to avoid it if possible. It works great but stinks and is a bear to get off even with multiple washings. I can't get the smell out of the reg but then again I have an acute sense of smell. If you have something that cuts it off I would LOVE to know what it is.
SaltX used to be my first choice but Salt Blaster is even better. I've never noticed any unusual smell to it at all....I wonder if it reacts different depending on the mineral content of the water it's mixed with??swimjim wrote: On another note, if you think PB Blaster is bad and hard to remove smell wise, try Salt-X some time. That stuff works great to remove verdigris and it's paint safe for the labels and chrome safe.... but the stench! Holy man, that stuff is down right nasty!
Great idea, Captain. Thanks for the tip. It can be applied to other similar circumstances where replacement parts are just not available.captain wrote:I have reconditioned broken eat holders before replacement were available from Bryan. I would drill hole through the seat holder using a lathe and # 38 drill bit and then use a 5-40 tap to thread the hole. Then use a length of 1/8" stainless TIG welding rod threaded 5-40 at both ends to create a new stem. I would also use a stainless 5-40 self locking nut, no need for nail polish or loctite. Corrosion issues gone.
Usually, alcohol will strip the oily stuff off. Have you tried soaking the parts in rubbing alcohol overnight to kill the residue?It works great but stinks and is a bear to get off even with multiple washings.
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