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ErosJax
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Fri Jun 05, 2015 8:58 pm

Another quick question, the yokes on the voit C II and the Aquarius I believe are 3000 psi yokes. So I assume Steel HP tanks are out for these regs?

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Voit Conqueror II

Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:53 pm

Depending on the yoke, it will physically fit on an HP tank valve like a convertible DIN. Remember though, since it is an unbalanced downstream piston regulator, if you adjust it to the specified IP @ 3000 psi, then it may free flow at 3500. Conversely, if you tune it for 3500, then it will have a lower IP @ 3000 psi.


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ErosJax
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Sat Jun 06, 2015 10:16 am

On second thought, I won't even worry about my HP tanks. I picked up 2 LP 72's at Sand dog this year, so I'll just use them with those tanks and save my HP's for my PRAM and Argonaut.

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ErosJax
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:04 am

Gents, I know this thread started out regarding a Voit Conqueror, but it also got me interested in the Aqualung Aquarius. I acquired an Aquarius 1st and 2nd and then got the rebuild kits from Bryan. So, I have successfully serviced my first regulator. Although I am still working on the 2nd stage.

You guys were right, the Aquarius 1st stage is very simple to work on. I cleaned it up, rebuilt it, and have the IP locked at 130.

Image

The 2nd stage was a little more complex. For the most part I have it completely rebuilt except for a new diaphragm, which is on order. I also replaced the old exhaust tee with a new old stock exhaust tee. That was a colossal PITA. I now see the value of the newer softer versions Bryan has in the store.

Image

Does anyone have any tips on bench testing the 2nd stage for someone with minimal tools at their disposal?

Once again, thanks for all the replies from above. They have been a big help.

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antique diver
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:31 am

With the regulator mounted on a full cylinder, pressurized,and front cover off the second stage, adjust the lever height with the nut until it is just slightly higher than the 2nd stage body. Then slide a straight edge across the body and as it passes over the lever tip you should get a little hiss of air. If not, adjust the nut until you get the above results. That's your starting point.

Then install the diaphragm and hold the front cover firmly in place. If this causes air to leak, lower the lever until no leak. Test the purge button to be sure the resulting flow suits you. Breathe from the reg and see if it suits you. Without a magnehelic gauge you can still measure the approximate vacuum required to initiate a slight air flow. Using a pan of water deep enough to submerge the 2nd stage, turn the body with mouthpiece straight up and slowly lower into the water. You should get a little air by the time the diaphragm is about an inch underwater. Adjust the lever upward as desired to make it easier to inhale, but you can only go so far before it begins to leak air.

This unbalanced regulator will have more breathing resistance as cylinder pressure drops, so you may want to bump your IP up on your full tank to around 145 and see how that works out. May cause you to have to make slight lever height adjustment.

More accurate vacuum measurements can be done with a simple "manometer" using clear flexible tubing. About an inch from one end make a beginning mark with Sharpie, and make accurate marks every quarter inch for a couple of inches. With the reg mouthpiece in your mouth, include the other end of the tube and let your lips seal around it and the mouthpiece. Place the marked end into a glass of water, or liquid of your choice if you want to make this more fun. Carefully hold tube depth where the first mark is exactly at liquid surface, and gently inhale, watching to see how high the water comes when the air just begins to flow.
There's your inches of negative water pressure. That reg should be able to adjust to around 1 to 1.25" of "cracking effort" with full cylinder and IP set around 135 to 145 at full pressure in cylinder.

Not all will do that due to variations in second stage spring tension, and it's not adjustable on this reg except by backing off the seat adjustment nut a little and carefully bending the lever upward to make up for it. The more you back off the nut, the less spring tension, and easier the second stage valve opens... but too far and the geometry of angle where the lever contacts diaphragm may work against you. I would try to get by without doing that, and juggle the IP instead.
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ErosJax
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 4:02 pm

Excellent Info! Thanks antique diver!

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antique diver
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 5:18 pm

ErosJax wrote:Excellent Info! Thanks antique diver!
You are welcome - let us know how it turns out.
BTW, the exhaust tees will soften in hot water and go or off on much easier! I guess that advice may be a little too late. :?
The older I get the better I was.

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ErosJax
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:03 pm

I actually did the hot water trick. I ran across a post by Nemrod on Scubaboard where he was giving someone advice on removing and reinstalling the tee. My problem was that I didn't know how long to let it sit in hot water. It also was almost too hot to handle after I pulled it out. Took me some time, but I got it eventually. It didn't seem like it wanted to soften up enough.

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antique diver
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:36 pm

When it gets hot enough to soften up it's too hot to hold without gloves.
The older I get the better I was.

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ErosJax
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:42 pm

Ahhhhh... that was my problem then. I wasn't getting it hot enough. Now I know for next time. I'm somewhat fumbling through this. That's the beauty of it though, learning from mistakes.

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georgeaustin
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Re: Voit Conqueror II

Tue Jun 21, 2016 5:17 pm

I got my little Voit Avalon working pretty well with a new seat from an Aquarius kit. The IP seems a little low at 100 psi so I threw a .040 nylon washer in there and bumped it up to 125 psi w/ 2000 psi supply pressure. Maybe a tired spring? I'm taking it out on Friday for a test.

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